Day 6-8 Part 2
June 13th
We were on the road again by 5am, greeted by clear skies and sunshine, although temperatures remained a chilly 6°C. This morning's destination was Vadsø Island, another site steeped in birding history. During our previous visit two years earlier, we had found little more than a few gull nests, so expectations were tempered. Vadsøya Island holds layers of history beneath your feet. Long before it became a peaceful nature reserve, it served as the original site of Vadsø town in the 1500s and a pitstop for Roald Amundsen's North Pole airship expeditions in the 1920s. During WWII, the occupying German military turned the island into a coastal stronghold, digging deep trenches, bunker positions, and artillery emplacements. Today, those turf-lined trenches remain remarkably intact across the tundra. Up to 2200 German soldiers were based here.
Vadsøya Island trenches, June 2025
Vadsøya Island trenches, June 2025
Vadsøya Island trenches, June 2025
Vadsøya Island trenches, June 2025
The day began promisingly as we walked around the Island. The usual suspects were on the Island, Willow Warbler, Redshanks, Oystercatchers, And a single Ruff were seen before we located a pair of Red-throated Pipits behaving suspiciously. Their actions suggested they had something to hide, and one of our major targets suddenly seemed within reach. Unfortunately, despite several hours of searching, the nest remained undiscovered. The female disappeared periodically but never consistently in the same area, making it impossible to narrow down a location. The birds were always distant for photography to avoid disturbance.
Red-throated Pipit, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-throated Pipit, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
While Adrian continued searching, I spent time photographing the Red-necked Phalaropes on a nearby pond. Watching these tiny waders glide effortlessly across the water was mesmerising, and they seemed completely unconcerned by my presence. Unfortunately, I arrived a bit too late in the morning. Even at 6:30 AM, the sun was already too high, casting harsh light across the water that ruined what could have been some wonderful shots. I really wish I’d gotten there earlier while the light was still low and soft.
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Then one male stepped out of the water just a few metres away and purposefully headed inland. He walked directly towards a patch of long grass around ten metres from the shoreline. Adrian quickly picked up on the behaviour and soon located the nest hidden within a grassy tussock. Inside were four tiny eggs. As we photographed the nest, the male returned. Despite us being less than two metres away, he calmly walked past, fluffed up his feathers, and settled straight back onto the eggs. It was an extraordinary privilege to watch such trust and dedication at such close range.
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
Red-necked Phalarope, Vadsoya Island, Norway, June 2025
By mid-morning, it was time to continue our journey further along the coast, eager to see what the next stretch of Arctic Norway had in store. We continued along the E75 towards Vardo. First stop was a location we had visited in 2023 and had great success especially with Temmincks Stint with 4 nest located that year. They are highly notable for being polygamous, females typically lay two separate clutches in quick succession—incubating one themselves while leaving the first to be raised by a different male. The area is a coastal river delta with a some barren sandy areas great habitat for these tiny little waders.
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
We set off on foot towards the spot where we had found our first nest in 2023. It wasn't long before Adrian flushed a bird from its nest, revealing a beautifully marked clutch of four eggs. As I knelt down to photograph the nest, I suddenly realised I was being feasted on by the local flies. In the few minutes I spent there, I was bitten countless times on the exposed skin around my ankles and wrists. The bites were incredibly itchy, but it was a small price to pay for such a rewarding find.
Temmincks Stint, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Temmincks Stint, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Temmincks Stint, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Temmincks Stint, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
A close fly over of a White-tailed Eagle gave some nice photography opportunities. They are everywhere but not often close enough for semi decent photos and normally seen as you drive along the coast.
White-tailed Eagle, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
White-tailed Eagle, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
We crossed the E75 to the coastal side and resumed our search. This area had been particularly productive in 2023, when we found nests of a Tundra Ringed Plover, an Arctic Tern, and another Temminck's Stint. Although there were no Temminck's Stints to be found this time, we did discover another Tundra Ringed Plover in almost exactly the same location as two years earlier. The Tundra Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula tundrae) is a distinct Arctic-breeding race of the Common Ringed Plover which breeds along the Arctic coasts, of northern Scandinavia and into Russia. We know this because we record every nest we find using the What3Words app, allowing us to pinpoint previous nesting sites with remarkable accuracy. You might notice the eggs are marked with lines this could be some kind of scientific project or a level of protection against egg collectors that are rumoured to be targeting this area.
Tundra Ringed Plover, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Ringed Plover, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Ringed Plover, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Ringed Plover, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Ringed Plover, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Ringed Plover, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
The Arctic Tern was also occupying virtually the same territory. Sadly, this was the only Arctic Tern we found. In 2023 there had been at least ten breeding pairs here, so the dramatic decline was impossible to ignore. It may well be another consequence of the recent avian influenza outbreak, which has had a devastating impact on many seabird populations.
Arctic Tern, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Tern, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Tern, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Tern, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Tern, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
One final point of interest was the discovery of the shell of a Common Redshank egg, a small but intriguing reminder of the breeding activity taking place across these coastal wetlands. A nest I have yet to come across on my travels. Pretty shocking that I have seen more Purple Sandpiper nests than I have Common Redshanks.
Redshank, Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
The drone footage below provides a bird's-eye view of the coastal habitat favoured by Temminck's Stints for breeding. The road visible is the E75, which passes through the small coastal village of Skallelv before crossing the River Skallelva. The river flows through the village and into the Barents Sea, creating a rich mosaic of shingle banks, wet meadows and estuarine habitat that supports a diverse range of breeding and migrating birds. From above, it is easy to appreciate why this area is such an important refuge for Arctic wildlife.
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
Skallelv, Norway, June 2025
A few hours around Skallelv and we were back on the E75 our last stop was going to be an area called Komagværstranda a Nature Reserve of tundra and wet bogs. We followed a rough track for several miles heading further into the tundra we saw plenty of birds on the way up including some feeding Ruff that I filmed from the car with my phone.
Komagværstranda Nature Reserve, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Our targets here were the numerous wading birds that call this expansive area of Tundra home but mainly the Bar-tailed Godwit. We haven't had much with Godwits over the years durning a blank in 2023 with the bar-tailed and no Black-tailed Godwits on 2 trip to Iceland. We felt our luck was to change with nest being record in this area in previous years. No sooner had we left the car and we were onto a pair of Bluethroats which like the others before them that did a bunk and weren't seen again.
Bluethroat, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
We walked across the dry Tundra occasionally coming across wet areas of bogs. I didn't have my waders on but went in anyway wrecking my shoes in the process a casualty of the trip. Like the bogs of Karigasniemi they weren't to deep but you just had to take care with every step. A few waders were heard alongside a couple of singing male Lapland Buntings.
Lapland Bunting, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
We soon came across the first nest from this area not a new one for the trip but a celebrated find. It was our 3rd Ruff and another beautiful nest. Again like all the waders we had found so far it was on a dry patch with a Dwarf birch growing right next to the nest site. Many waders nesting on Arctic bogs use areas close to dwarf birch, but the relationship is a balance rather than a strict preference. Different species choose slightly different microhabitats depending on their ecology. There are several reasons why dwarf birch can be attractive:
- Shelter from the elements. Even low-growing dwarf birch can reduce wind exposure, which is important in the cold, often harsh Arctic climate. A nest tucked beside a small shrub can provide a slightly warmer, more stable microclimate for eggs and chicks.
- Camouflage. The mix of birch stems, mosses, sedges, and lichens helps break up the outline of a sitting bird and its nest, making them harder for predators such as foxes, gulls, skuas, and corvids to detect.
- Access to food. Dwarf birch often grows where soils are slightly drier than the surrounding quaking bog but still support abundant insects. These areas can provide excellent foraging opportunities for adults and, later, for chicks.
- Suitable nesting substrate. Many waders avoid both the wettest pools and the driest ridges. The edges of dwarf birch patches often provide slightly raised hummocks that remain dry enough to keep eggs safe from flooding while still being close to productive feeding areas.
- Visibility. Most Arctic waders need to keep watch for predators. Low birch offers concealment without blocking the bird's view, allowing it to detect approaching danger while remaining hidden.
That said, not all species use dwarf birch in the same way. On the Finnish aapa mires it's common to find nests beside a single dwarf birch or willow bush because it provides just enough cover without sacrificing the open landscape these birds rely on. As a nest finder it pays to play close attention to isolated shrubs on raised hummocks, as they can be surprisingly productive places to search.
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Ruff, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
I also came across a Whimbrel that looked guilty I watched it back and then when I thought I had a mark on it I walked back in. The bird got up again and somehow, I missed my mark and walked right past it. I turned to see Adrian with a big smile and his stick in the ground nearby was a c4. I put this one down to fatigue. Always pleased to find a Whimbrel
Whimbrel, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Whimbrel, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Whimbrel, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Whimbrel, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Whimbrel, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
As we headed back to the car, we flushed a goose that had shot up from its downy nest c6 luckily, I got a few record shots as it flew away so we could identify it as Tundra Bean Goose another new species for us all. We had covered some good ground and walked about 5km but had sadly missed our main target. Sometimes you just find some really good unexpected nests by just walking in the right spot.
Tundra Bean Goose, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Bean Goose, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Bean Goose, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Bean Goose, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Bean Goose, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Tundra Bean Goose, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Bluethroat, Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Before leaving the area, I flew my drone to capture an aerial view of the bog. The footage provides a much better perspective of the habitat these birds choose for breeding, highlighting the intricate mosaic of pools, quaking fens, string bogs and scattered dwarf birch that can be difficult to appreciate from ground level. It also illustrates just how vast and challenging this landscape is to search on foot.
Drone image of Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Drone image of Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Drone image of Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Drone image of Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Drone image of Komagværstranda, Norway, June 2025
Our final destination of the trip was the Hamningberg which is an abandoned fishing village in Båtsfjord Municipality, Finnmark, and it sits right at the end of the road of the northern coast of Norway's Varanger Peninsula. Although it belongs to Båtsfjord Municipality, the only road access is via Vardø, making it a surprisingly long drive from the rest of the municipality. Once a thriving fishing community, Hamningberg is unique in Finnmark as one of the very few villages to escape destruction during the German retreat at the end of the Second World War. While much of the county was systematically burned, Hamningberg survived, leaving behind a rare glimpse of the region's historic coastal architecture. The village was eventually abandoned in 1964 as changing economic conditions and depopulation took their toll. Today, although no one lives here permanently, a number of the original buildings have been lovingly preserved and are used as summer cottages. One of these cottages was going to be our digs for the next few nights.Iit was booked via Airb&b and wasn't cheap but accomadtion here is limited. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the Barents Sea, the weathered wooden houses and stark Arctic landscape make Hamningberg one of the most atmospheric and photogenic places in northern Norway.
Digs in Hamningberg, Norway, June 2025
Digs in Hamningberg, Norway, June 2025
Digs in Hamningberg, Norway, June 2025
Digs in Hamningberg, Norway, June 2025
View from our Digs in Hamningberg, Norway, June 2025
View from our Digs in Hamningberg, Norway, June 2025
A long reward day in the field!! After cooking some tea we had a local beer to celebrate before heading off to bed for an early start tomorrow.
Day 6-8 Mount Ailigás and on to the Varanger - Part 1
June 11th
Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
We had one final day in the area before moving further north the following morning. The plan was to climb Mount Ailigás in search of Dotterel and Snow Buntings before spending the afternoon back on the bogs. The ascent isn't particularly demanding, with the summit reaching just 623 metres, crowned by a large communications tower. On the way up we found another reindeer antler, which we marked on our GPS so we could return later to pick up and pass on to the owners of our accommodation, who would ensure it was displayed with pride in their restaurant.
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
It was another overcast and breezy day, although it looked as though the weather would remain dry. Not long after leaving the car, we came across several large deposits of Ptarmigan droppings scattered across the tundra—a promising sign that the birds were in the area.
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
The first bird we actually encountered, however, was a Long-tailed Skua. It was in much the same area where we had seen a non-breeding pair two years earlier. This time it was a lone bird, which obligingly posed for a few minutes before taking to the air and disappearing across the tundra. Having found a few on previous trips we continued up the mountain.
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
As we continued our climb up the mountain, we began to hear the distinctive calls of Ptarmigan, so we knew it wouldn't be long before we found one. When we finally did, it was a real beauty. The bird stood perfectly still among the rocks, giving us a wonderful opportunity to admire just how effective its summer camouflage really is. Blending seamlessly with the surrounding rocky tundra, it relied entirely on its cryptic plumage rather than taking flight. Its confidence in its camouflage allowed us to edge a little closer, rewarding us with some superb, frame-filling photographs before it finally decided we were close enough. I couls have spent all day here with the Ptarmigan as there is something special to me about these birds. The rock ptarmigan is called Kiiruna in Finnish.
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
The Ptarmigan were a welcome distraction as we traversed the lower slopes of the mountain. We came across a few more individuals, while the calls of Meadow Pipits carried across the tundra. The ground became noticeably steeper as we approached the plateau, and care was needed as the rocks and scree underfoot were extremely loose. This was where we planned to spend the next few hours searching for Dotterel. We split up to cover more ground, walking back and forth across the plateau, but aside from a few Ptarmigan there was little else to be seen. Eventually we regrouped and headed towards the southern edge. As we crossed the open ground, we picked up a single female Dotterel. We watched it for a few minutes before it took flight and disappeared over the edge of the mountain. A brief encounter, but at least we had managed to see one. While watching the Dotterel, we also picked up a male Snow Bunting feeding nearby. Dotterel are a tricky to bird to find nesting you need to firstly be in the right habitat. These birds that blend in so well with their tundra surroundings will literally sit there until you almost step on them. We may have walked within a few feet of the incubating male and just been unlucky on this day.
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
We watched this before it headed off we walked over in the direction it headed to see if it had a girl friend. The male Snow bunting then began to sing from a few song perches across its territory. It allowed a really close approach and we managed to get some frame filling pictures. I love Snow buntings especially in their summer plumage and it was a real privilege to watch this male singing on this barren landscape. Across the Arctic tundra, male Snow Buntings begin singing almost as soon as they arrive on their breeding grounds in early spring. Their cheerful song is often delivered from the top of a prominent rock or during fluttering display flights above their territory. Interestingly, once a male has successfully attracted a mate, his song output declines dramatically and may cease altogether, with his attention turning instead to defending the territory and helping to raise the young. Although beautiful we didn't hold out much hope of finding any Snow Bunting nests today.
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
However eventually, the male was joined by a female, and the search for their nest began in earnest. We spent hours walking the hillsides, watching the female carefully to see where she might lead us. Time and again she would take off and fly a considerable distance, so we would move to another area to continue the search, only to realise she had slipped away somewhere else. This game of cat and mouse continued for quite some time. Throughout it all, the male continued to sing, seemingly unconcerned by our presence. His relaxed behaviour led us to suspect that the pair probably hadn't established a nest after all. It wasn't to be on this occasion, but there would be other opportunities in the future.
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
On the walk back down, we came across a Meadow Pipit—a small consolation after several gruelling hours on the hills. We eventually returned to the car and enjoyed our lunch, accompanied by the constant trilling of a pair of Waxwings.
Meadow Pipit, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Meadow Pipit, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Waxwings, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
That afternoon we headed back to the bogs we had briefly explored the previous evening. Our main goal was to spend some time with the Bluethroats, as they were one of our priority species for both nest recording and photography. Sadly, they were a complete no-show, with no sign of them at all. The only birds in evidence were a few calling Redwings and Bramblings. Once again we ventured into the wetland, covering a huge amount of ground with very little to show for our efforts. There were countless small pools that looked ideal, but they were devoid of birds. One particularly large wet area, complete with a small lake at one end, looked especially promising, so we spent several hours searching it thoroughly. We flushed a Broad-billed Sandpiper but failed to locate a nest, so we marked the area for a return visit. That second search also appeared to draw a blank. The video below shows the kind of ground we were covering.
Karigasniemi marsh, Finland, June 2025
Then, just as we were about to give up hope, another bird flushed. To our delight, it was another Broad-billed Sandpiper, and this time it revealed a clutch of three eggs—probably an incomplete set. We were thrilled. Finding one nest of this secretive wader would have been a fantastic result, but discovering a second was simply remarkable. Broad-billed Sandpipers are exceptionally elusive birds that nest almost exclusively in the vast aapa (string bog) and palsa (peat mound) mires of northern Europe. These landscapes are incredibly difficult to navigate, and, as I've mentioned before, the birds favour the wettest areas, often nesting among floating, quaking fens. Nearly 70% of the European breeding population is found in Finland, making encounters like this all the more special. A male smew landed on the water and a couple of Broad-billed Sandpipers were displaying over the bog as we left the area a nice finish to the day.
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpipers joy flighting, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
We headed back to the digs for a final supper in the restaurant the food was awesome and well recommended if you are ever in the area. Reindeer burger washed down by some local beers.
Dinner,Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
My room for the last few nights, Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
June 12th
Bogs of Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
We had several hours on the road today as we travelled north and we would cross the Finnish border into Norway. The day was cool and overcast, with temperatures hovering around 8°C, but there was still plenty to keep us entertained before leaving Finland behind. Our first stops still within Finland were at a series of roadside nest boxes. One box appeared to contain the remains of a female Smew, and a closer inspection revealed several small birds buried within the nesting material. At that point, I really should have left well alone, but curiosity got the better of me and I carried on looking. Moments later, I was almost attacked by a furious Pine Marten that had clearly adopted the cosy Smew nest as both home and larder. The lid was slammed shut in haste, and we made a very swift exit.
Nest box, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Our next stop was a damp woodland in search of Waxwings. Although the Waxwings remained elusive, we enjoyed a few calling Bramblings, and after finding an empty Redpoll we soon got lucky with a very obliging Redpoll. It wasn't a very difficult climb only a few feet up so managed to get some good pictures of the inside of the nest. We also had a Redwing feeding chicks nearby.
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll nesting area, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redwing, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Lihavakalajärvet Buoiddesguoljávrrit, Finland, June 2025
We also couldn't resist stopping to photograph what must be one of the longest place names I've ever come across. Lihavakalajärvet is the Finnish name and apparently translates roughly as "Fat Fish Lakes." The same area is known locally in the Sámi language as Buoiddesguoljávrrit—a name that's even more of a tongue-twister! It certainly made for an unusual photo stop before we continued our journey north.
Whilst moving north we stopped a few times without to much success as we neared the Norwegian border at Utsjoki we stopped and whist the others had a look around I took the opportunity again to get the drone out to survey the surrounding area. Just beautiful as far as the eye can see its just woodland and water.
Utsjoki, Finland, June 2025
Utsjoki, Finland, June 2025
Utsjoki, Finland, June 2025
We crossed the Norwegian border at Utsjoki, and before long the real excitement began as we reached the Arctic coast and joined the E75, which hugs the spectacular shoreline of the Varangerfjord. Varangerfjord is one of northern Europe's most spectacular fjords, stretching for around 100 kilometres along the northern coast of Norway. Bordered by the vast Varanger Peninsula to the north and the Norwegian mainland to the south, its shores are a remarkable mix of rocky coastline, tidal mudflats, wetlands and Arctic tundra. The fjord is internationally renowned for its wildlife, attracting birdwatchers from around the world in search of breeding waders, seaducks, skuas and seabirds. During spring and early summer, the combination of dramatic scenery and exceptional birdlife makes Varangerfjord one of the finest wildlife destinations in the Arctic. We would spend the remainder of our trip exploring this remarkable region, an area that had proved incredibly productive during our visit in 2023. With so many unforgettable memories from that trip, we could only hope that lightning might strike twice. No visit to Varanger would be complete without a stop at Nesseby Church, a site that has featured in countless birding books over the years. Set against the stunning backdrop of the fjord, the church and its surrounding meadows have long been regarded as one of the region's classic birdwatching locations, making it the perfect place to begin our Norwegian adventure.
Nesseby Church, Finland,June 2025
Here, a Common Gull and an Oystercatcher were nesting on the roof of an outbuilding, while another Oystercatcher had chosen the graveyard as its nesting site, providing some unusual photographic opportunities. Although nesting birds were otherwise scarce, the retreating tide revealed large numbers of waders, ducks and geese feeding across the mudflats. White-tailed Sea Eagles are almost commonplace here and were seen soaring over the fjord throughout the day. The nearby pond held several Red-necked Phalaropes, Wood Sandpipers, Ruff and a couple of Spotted Redshanks along its margins, making for an excellent start to our time in Varanger.
Oystercatcher and Common Gull, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Continuing along the Barents Sea coastline, we arrived at Ekkerøy, a site frequently mentioned in birding literature. We had been told it was a good location for Turnstones, and finding a nest of this species was our main objective for the afternoon. The walk out to the peninsula was longer than expected. We covered a lot of ground and initially found very little. Eventually, we reached the area where friends had located nests the previous year and began systematically searching. After several passes, Ricky finally flushed a Turnstone. It took a few minutes to relocate, but Adrian remembered reports of Turnstones nesting beneath rocks. Sure enough, tucked away in a shallow depression beneath a rock slab was a beautiful clutch of four eggs — a C4 and one of our key targets for the trip.
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Unfortunately, the nest's position made photography difficult, so we set our sights on finding another. After another twenty minutes of searching, a second Turnstone flushed. This bird proved even trickier, and we were unable to pinpoint the nest location immediately. We marked the area and withdrew to give the bird time to settle back down. While waiting, we spotted a pair of Arctic Skuas in the distance and headed over for a closer look. Compared to the Turnstones, the skuas were easy to locate. One incubating bird soon took to the air, joined by its mate and two additional skuas. What followed was an incredibly vocal and aggressive display.
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
As we approached the nesting area, we were repeatedly mobbed by the furious birds. We've found plenty of Arctic Skua nests over the years, and some birds barely react, but these were among the most aggressive we've encountered. Their determination paid off, however, as we located a clutch of two eggs (C2). After a few quick photographs, we retreated rapidly before the skuas got any closer for comfort.
Arctic Skua, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Returning to the second Turnstone location, we found the bird again. It flushed and immediately began calling and performing an injury-feigning display. While I watched and photographed the performance, Adrian carefully searched the area and soon located the nest. Another clutch of four eggs, but this time the nest was fully exposed and allowed us to photograph the beautifully marked eggs properly. Mission accomplished.
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
We continued searching the surrounding area but found no further nests. What we did discover was a sobering sight — hundreds of dead gulls scattered across the shoreline. We suspected this was another tragic consequence of avian influenza.
A Meadow Pipit nest was found during the walk back to the car, providing one final success before we visited the famous Kittiwake cliffs. Thousands of pairs were nesting there, many still on single eggs while others had completed clutches. It was still slightly early for chicks. Razorbills and Guillemots occupied some of the lower ledges, adding to the spectacle.
Meadow Pipit, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
That evening we headed to our accommodation in the centre of Vadsø. At around £150 for the night, it was comfortable enough, and we all enjoyed a good night's sleep. Before turning in, we stocked up at the local supermarket, ensuring we had enough supplies for the next few days as we prepared to venture further from civilisation.
Digs for the night Vadsø. Norway, June 2025
Digs for the night Vadsø. Norway, June 2025
Digs for the night Vadsø. Norway, June 2025
Day 4-6 into the Arctic circle and the Karigasniemi Marsh
Monday 9th June
After leaving the Siberian Jays, we headed north towards the Arctic Circle. It was still early, and we hoped to see some grouse species along the road. We weren't
disappointed: first, a Hazel Grouse, a lifer for all of us, followed by a female Capercaillie. This was great, as it was a lifer for both Ricky and Adrian. It didn't hang around for long, but I managed to grab a few pictures on my phone before it disappeared into the undergrowth.
Capercaillie, Arctic Circle, Finland, June 2025
We continued north and crossed the Arctic Circle, where we had to stop for a photo. I took the opportunity to go for a short run, which now means I can say I've run across the Arctic Circle—lol!!!!
The crew, Arctic Circle, Finland, June 2025
Arctic Circle, Finland, June 2025
We had two stops en route to the Karigasniemi Marsh today. First up was a site near Pelkosenniemi for Common Cranes. We had some good intel from last year that this was a reliable spot. After finding a place to park, we began the walk in. We followed a track that I thought would bring us out near the site, but unfortunately it was impassable, as the path disappeared into the bog. The air was filled with midges, so we covered up to be on the safe side. There were also plenty of signs of what looked like deer in the area, with droppings scattered all over the place.
It was too far to walk in from here across a really boggy area so we had to re think and had to find somewhere else to get into the area. Some good birds were in the area with numerous calling Wood Sandpipers and some drumming Woodpeckers. We searched in vain for these hoping they might be Black Woodpeckers. None seen
We soon found the correct area we needed to get into the Crane site and it actually followed a boardwalk out to a wooden bird hide on the edge of a huge area of bog. The walk out was interesting it started in a woodland where we had, Willow Warblers, Blackcap, Lesser Whitethroat, Redwings, Pied Flycatcher and Bramblings.
We soon hit the bog and there was a well maintained boardwalk which went on for a fair few km. Along the boardwalk the local schools had made some banners on the birds you might see which included Common Crane and Great Grey Shrike. No shrike today but we soon heard and saw a couple of cranes. Also a long the boardwalk we saw good numbers of what I suspect were Great Raft Spiders.
Boardwalk, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Great Raft Spider, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Great Raft Spider, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
At the end of the boardwalk stood a wooden viewing platform that offered stunning views across the bog. And when I say vast, I mean truly vast—it stretched away for miles in every direction. Somewhere out there, hidden among the endless expanse of wetlands, were nesting Common Cranes, and that's what we had come to see. From the platform, we carefully scanned the bog. Apart from a few very distant nesting gulls and some Whooper Swans, there wasn't much else visible. Not that there wasn't plenty out there—I'm sure there were several pairs of cranes scattered across the marsh—but they were simply too far away for us to pick out with our binoculars We had put a lot of effort into reaching this spot, but on this occasion, the cranes had the upper hand.
Boardwalk, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Boardwalk, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Boardwalk, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Boardwalk, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Boardwalk, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
As we were leaving, a pair of cranes suddenly flew overhead before dropping down onto the bog. I climbed back up to the platform to see what they were up to. One bird disappeared into a patch of woodland, while the other landed out on the marsh. Nearby, a pair of nesting Curlews took immediate exception to the crane's presence, and before long the three birds were engaged in a loud and very vocal disagreement. The Curlews eventually won the argument, and the crane moved off. I watched it for a while longer, but it appeared to be feeding rather than showing any signs of nesting, so I eventually gave up and made my way back to the car.
The walk back wasn't without reward, though, as we enjoyed good views of several Wood Sandpipers and a few Grey-headed Wagtails along the way.
Boardwalk bird tower, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
Boardwalk bird tower, Pelkosenniemi, Finland, June 2025
We arrived back at the car with a fair few miles already in our legs, yet we still had a few hundred miles to drive and one more potential stop along the way. Our next destination was a mountain and ski resort near Saariselkä, a reliable site for breeding Dotterel. Given that you can almost drive to the summit, it seemed a no-brainer to stop and have a look around. At the car park there was a restaurant, and around it we found several pairs of breeding House Martins. It was great to see them, although I couldn't help wondering how they managed to survive in such a harsh environment, as it was bitterly cold even at this time of year.
The area was busy with tourists, which is never ideal when you're trying to watch birds, but we gave it a chance anyway. We spread out across the mountain in search of Dotterel, but despite our efforts we all drew a blank. There were, however, a pair of Northern Golden Plovers and a pair of Whimbrel to keep us interested. The Whimbrel were behaving rather suspiciously, and after watching them for a short while we discovered why. Hidden among the vegetation was a beautiful, though incomplete, clutch of three eggs. After what had been a fairly slow day, it was a rewarding find and a welcome boost to morale. I remember our first trip to Iceland 7 years ago and how excited we were to find a Whimbrels nest. Even now years later and well in do double figures I get just as excited to peer into one of these magnificent waders nests.
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Whimbrel nest, Saariselka, Finland, June 2025
Our final stop before reaching our accommodation for the next three nights was a small site we had discovered three years earlier. It held good memories. On that previous visit, we had barely stepped out of the car when Adrian somehow managed to pick out a Black-throated Diver sitting on a nest. Given how site-faithful these birds can be, and the fact that we would be driving right past, it seemed well worth another look. Unfortunately, there was no sign of any divers this time. The Fieldfare that had nested in a tree stump during our visit two years earlier was also absent. The best birds on offer were a Common Sandpiper and a pair of Red-breasted Mergansers. There was, however, one curious discovery. Mounted nearby was an unusual-looking nest box and, unable to resist a peek inside, I carefully opened it. Instead of a bird, I found a strange object tucked away within. My best guess is that it was someone's geocache, although it certainly wasn't what I was expecting to find.
Before long we were back on the road, making the final push to our base for the next three days. We had chosen a place that was decidedly basic but perfectly located, sitting right in the heart of the Karigasniemi Marshes. We had explored the area two years earlier but, for whatever reason, had struggled to find many birds. Even so, it was a site that deserved another chance. The marshes have a rich birding history and feature regularly in old trip reports and field journals. It is regarded as one of the premier wader sites in the region, with species such as Broad-billed Sandpiper, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Jack Snipe and Spotted Redshank all possible. Every one of those species was firmly on our target list. We had also been given a few promising locations to check, and those would form the basis of tomorrow morning's plans. The accommodation itself was even more basic than I had imagined—essentially a wooden cabin with little more than a fridge inside—and we had paid a premium for the privilege. That said, accommodation in this remote corner of Finland is limited, and location was far more important than luxury. What the place lacked in comforts, it more than made up for in atmosphere. The surroundings were beautiful, the on-site restaurant was excellent, and the proprietors could not have been more welcoming. After settling in, I took a short stroll down to the river. It was late in the evening and the birdlife was fairly subdued, but a few Redpolls, Bramblings and a flyover Waxwing provided a pleasant end to the day and a tantalising hint of what the coming days might hold.
Digs for the night I had the middle shed - Kaamanen, June 2025
Area around of Digs - Kaamanen, June 2025
Kota at the camping area, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Nearby River lots of calling Brambling and Willow Warblers, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Nearby River, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Nearby River no birds seen or heard on the river, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
The following morning began with another early start, and before most people had even poured their first coffee, we had had our breakfast rations and were pulling into a small lay-by a few miles up the road. To most passers-by it would have looked completely unremarkable, but for us it held a very special memory. Two years earlier, a pair of nest boxes here had produced our first-ever Smew nest, a moment none of us had forgotten. Naturally, we couldn't drive past without checking them again. As we approached the boxes, our hopes began to rise. One of them was occupied. Peering inside, we were greeted by the sight of a stunning female Smew aka a Redhead sitting tightly on her clutch. Her beautiful chestnut head glowed in the morning light as she patiently incubated her eggs. When she eventually slipped from the nest, she revealed the prize beneath her—seven boring white duck eggs nestled in a bed of down lol. It was a fantastic start to the day and proof that this little conservation success story was continuing. One of the things I love most about birding in Finland is the number of nest boxes provided for species such as Smew and Goldeneye. Across the country, thousands of boxes have been erected by conservationists, birders and local volunteers, creating breeding opportunities in areas where natural nest sites can be scarce. Smew are secondary cavity nesters, meaning they cannot excavate their own holes and instead depend on existing tree cavities, often those originally created by Black Woodpeckers. In managed forests, suitable old trees can be in short supply, making artificial nest boxes incredibly valuable. The results speak for themselves. Finland now supports an estimated 1,000–2,000 breeding pairs of Smew, representing a significant proportion of the entire European population. The species is particularly associated with the vast taiga forests of northern and eastern Finland, with strongholds in areas such as Kuusamo, Salla and the remote reaches of Eastern Lapland. Standing there beside that nest box, looking down at a clutch of seven eggs, it was impossible not to appreciate the impact such simple conservation measures can have. Without the efforts of countless volunteers over many decades, moments like this would be far rarer. For us, though, it was simply a wonderful encounter and a perfect way to begin another day in Lapland.
Smew nest, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Smew nest, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Smew nest site, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Smew nest site, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
We then all we had a good walk through the woods around here and had some territorial Waxwings. Watched these for a while as they were acting site faithfully and similar to how we found a nest back in 2023. These however were not nesting and just holding territory as no nest was found. Love the sounds in the below video of the Waxwings, Bramblings and Willow Warblers. Takes me back every time I watch it.
Waxwing nesting area, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
After thoroughly working the wooded section, we turned our attention to a site that had been firmly etched into our plans from the outset of the trip. Karigasniemi Bog is nothing short of a wilderness in the truest sense—an immense sweep of open mire, dwarf birch scrub and rolling alpine tundra that dissolves into the horizon in every direction. It is a landscape that feels untouched, almost indifferent to human presence, and for birders it holds an almost mythical reputation as one of the finest wader breeding areas in northern Europe. Our target list reflected that reputation. Spotted Redshank, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Ruff and Wood Sandpiper were all firmly on the radar, though experience in places like this teaches you to expect the unexpected. In reality, anything could turn up—or nothing at all. The marshes have been visited by generations of birders, and the names of some of the most respected field observers in Europe are woven into its history. Their notes, reports and stories gave the place an added sense of anticipation as we finally set foot on the same ground. We headed first for a specific location where friends had found a nesting Spotted Redshank the previous year. With a precise grid reference in hand and knowing how loyal these birds can be to traditional breeding sites, it felt like the most logical starting point. The approach was deceptively subdued. We moved across dry, scrub-dotted ground, scanning constantly, ears tuned to every distant call. Then, briefly, a Spotted Redshank broke the silence overhead, its sharp call cutting across the bog as it passed—a flash of encouragement that immediately lifted spirits. But as we closed in on the supposed nesting area, the atmosphere changed. We half expected the usual commotion that accompanies an active wader territory—alarm calls, distraction displays, agitation—but there was nothing. Just stillness. When we eventually pinpointed the exact site from the previous year, the signs of past success were still there. The outline of a scrape remained in the vegetation, a ghost of last season’s breeding attempt. Yet it was clearly deserted. For the next couple of hours we pushed deeper into the surrounding marsh, fanning out across a landscape that seemed to stretch on forever. We worked methodically, scanning pools, ridges and tussocks, but the bog remained stubbornly quiet. Our key species stayed frustratingly out of reach. It wasn’t all empty, though. Out on the tundra lay a spectacular reindeer antler, weathered but still in remarkable condition. Too large to carry comfortably, we marked its position and left it for later retrieval—a small reward set against an otherwise challenging search. For now, the birds would have to wait, and the hunt continued across the endless expanse of Karigasniemi.
Spotted Redshank nest scrape, Karigasniemi, June 2025
Spotted Redshank nesting habitat, Karigasniemi, June 2025
Spotted Redshank nesting habitat, Karigasniemi, June 2025
Reindeer antler, Karigasniemi, June 2025
Reindeer antler, Karigasniemi, June 2025
Although our first search area had drawn a blank, our optimism quickly returned as we approached the vast wetlands that stretched away to the horizon. This was the habitat we had come for. Before us lay an immense expanse of bog, seemingly endless and largely untouched, with more ground to cover than we could hope to explore in a single day. The bogs of the Karigasniemi fell region are a fascinating mix of blanket bogs and palsa mires. Unlike the deep peatlands found elsewhere, the peat layer here is often relatively shallow, averaging between half a metre and a metre and a half before giving way to permafrost, mineral soil or bedrock. In places, frozen peat mounds known as palsas rise from the landscape like miniature islands, some standing two or three metres above the surrounding bog. It is a unique and wild environment, perfectly suited to the northern waders we were searching for. Of course, exploring it required a certain amount of preparation. Armed with chest waders and a probing stick to test the depth of the mire ahead of us, we found a patch of dry ground and stopped to get ready before venturing out into the wetland. As we unpacked our gear, a Grey-headed Wagtail called nearby, its distinctive voice carrying across the bog. Then, just as Adrian sat down to pull on his waders, a second bird suddenly burst from the ground at his feet. We immediately knew something was up. A quick inspection revealed the reason. Tucked neatly beneath an exposed tree root was a beautifully concealed Grey-headed Wagtail nest, perfectly camouflaged against the surrounding vegetation. It was one of those wonderful finds that happen completely by chance. Photographing it proved far more difficult than finding it. The overhanging root left very little room to manoeuvre, making it impossible to get a conventional camera into position. Fortunately, modern technology came to the rescue. By carefully sliding a mobile phone underneath the root, we were able to capture a few photographs of this superbly hidden little nest before quietly moving on and leaving the birds in peace.
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Grey-headed Wagtail, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Finnish Bog, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Haven never really walked on a bog before I started off slowly as you just didn't know what lies beneath, its a really strange feeling as you walk around some areas are dry and others you sink down above the knee. It takes a bit of time to trust that your not going to disappear into the abyss. Other areas of floating mires you don't really sink down and it really feels like you are walking on water. Progress is slow as you amble around. As we wadded through there was plenty of Wood Sandpiper around and Adrian come across a few obvious scrapes on some of the higher dry ground. A good sign. It wasn't long before we had our first flush a Ruff come up about 10m in from of me a quick delicate search and nothing was found so we marked the area to return later. After a fruitless search of other areas we returned to the area and the bird flushed again. It wasnt long before Adrian located the nest. Our first Ruff and another wader species of the list.
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
We spilt up across the area and being slighter taller I headed out into the really rank areas whilst Adrian and Ricky hit the areas around the drier ground. I had lots of Wood Sandpipers again but they were all in feeding groups not individuals off nests. I also had great fun watching firstly Adrian getting stuck solid and then Ricky get into a bit of trouble. I was now stuck thinking do I help and get stuck myself or let them work it out. Thankfully both made it out but much to my amusement.
Stuck in a bog,Karigasniemi, June 2025
Stuck in a bog,Karigasniemi, June 2025
We had spent a fair few hours now often knee deep in murky bog water and hadn't turned to much up. Some good sightings with plenty of Wood Sandpipers and numerous Spotted Redshank flyovers but we had hoped for more. Then the dream bird flushed at my feet. It was a dull looking bird and it moved like a small mouse as it pretend to be injured as it walked through the rank vegetation. This could only be one bird and could only mean one thing we were close to the nest site of the super secretive and rare Broad-billed Sandpiper. The area the nest was in was some of the worst we had come across on floating vegetation and they are always well hidden. We had to be really careful as we searched for the nest. It didn't take too long to find and this one nest made the numerous hours in the bog all worthwhile. These birds are really tricky to find as they sit tight and you pretty much have to stand on them before they reveal their location. Not many of these nest are found due to the habitat and their secretive nature making them really hard to get a good estimate on the breeding population in an area.
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper nest site, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Whilst photographing the Broad-billed Sandpiper another Ruff flushed nearby. It's like buses you wait for one and then another comes along. Hours of nothing and then 2 nest in 5 minutes. It was another C4. Before photograhing the Ruff we watched the Broad-billed sneak back onto its eggs. You could almost make out a small pathway it cleared used to enter and exit the site.
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Ruff nest 2, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
After numerous hours we headed back to the car and from here we crossed the road to another smaller bog. We walked this area again flushing numerous Wood Sandpipers but not much else. We did have a pair of Bluethroat that looked good so put a bit of time into them only from them to disappear. The wooded area held Brambling. Knackered after a long day in the bog we decided to put a bit of time into them and this bog tomorrow. As we left a male Smew dropped onto the nearby water. We headed back to the digs for some food that we cooked in the Kota. We also handed the Reindeer Antler to our hosts who were really grateful and they were going to mount it on the wall in the restaurant.
Bogs of Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Bogs of Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Bogs of Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Bogs of Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Bogs of Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Day 1-3 Oulu to Kussamo
Nearly two year since our last trip and after some mixed success in Lapland we decided on a return trip to try and find some bits we missed out on during our last visit. We decided to revisit some areas from our last trip and also take in a few new areas. The first new area to explore with Oulu. This was where we were going to start our trip. We flew from London Heathrow to Helsinki and after a short stop off and the most expensive Burger King we caught a connecting flight to Oulu. Of course we enjoyed our complimentary Blueberry juice on both flights.
We arrived in Oulu late afternoon and after picking up the hire car from the airport we were off for our first stop which was a former Timber yard pool on the in Oulu. The car we hired this year was a Nissan Quashi which was perfect for our party of 3 and all our luggage. It was an automatic which I always find useful when driving abroad. Car hire isn't cheap in Scandinavia so be prepared to brake the bank.
Our trip wheels
We arrived at the first planned stop which is meant to be a reliable stop for one of Finland rarest breeding birds the Terek Sandpiper. Its said 1-2 pairs breed in the Oulu area so we knew our chances of connecting were small. We arrived at the site which looked like it had recently been developed with a new building appearing next to the small pond these birds breed by. The pond a former timber pond also looked a lot smaller than I expected and we didn't hold out much hope of finding anything on this tiny patch of water. A few swallows flew past and a White Wagtail was seen on the surrounding fence. There was also plenty of Redwings and Fieldfares singing in the nearby trees. A Wood Sandpiper was in and out of the reeds but nothing else of note was seen or heard. I have seen numerous pictures of the Tereks on the nearby street lights but unfortunately we saw nothing, and to be honest we weren't sure if we were in the right spot.
Terek Sandpiper nest site, Oulu, Finland, June 2025
We had seen a small car park 100m up the road which looked over the bay we parked here and watched numerous Common Terns and Black-headed Gull flying around. Adrian and Ricky took a short walk to the back of the Timber ponds and it wasn't long before they were heading back with news that a Terek Sandpiper was resting on some rocks. I gathered my camera gear and headed over. Boom there it was a Terek Sandpiper in all its glory asleep on some rocks. In Finland this bird is right on the edge of its breeding range and its said only a few pairs breed here. I worry that with the development in the area the few pairs breeding here won't be here for much longer. We only saw the one bird here today which on closer inspection was rung. Im unsure if this was rung here or elsewhere. Also in the area was a Wheatear and a very noisy pair of Oystercatcher.
Terek Sandpiper, Oulu, June 2025
Terek Sandpiper, Oulu, June 2025
Terek Sandpiper, Oulu, June 2025
Terek Sandpiper nest site, Oulu, Finland, June 2025
After a few sat nav difficulties we eventually found our accommodation for the night which was the Best Western Apollo hotel. The rooms were clean and tidy and even had a sauna in each room. The only downside was the wifi wasn't strong enough to get a decent internet connection to watch the Bristol v Bath Premiership rugby playoff semi final game. Attached to the hotel was apparently Finlands first kairokei bar. We went in for beer which was probably the worst and most expensive beer I have ever had. I think the water from the timber ponds would have tasted better. After a full days travel we took an early night ready for a few long days ahead.
Saturday 7th June 2025
The following morning I planned to take in the Oulu Parkrun. A Parkrun is a free, weekly timed 5Km (3.1 - mile) running event that's places in parks and open spaces around the world. It is open to walkers, joggers, runners, and volunteers of all ages and abilities. As an avid Parkrunner I couldn't resist the temptation of doing the most northerly Parkrun in the world. It was situated in the Pokkinen park which looked good for a spot of birding. Adrian and Ricky although tempted by the Parkrun decided to have a look around the park instead. It was a beautiful location and supposedly a good spot for Rosefinch. Speaking to one of the volunteers I found out that this Parkrun only gets cancelled if the temp drops below -15 can't imagine many UK Parkruns operating at this temperature. I did a short warm up before the main event and saw a pair of Slavonian Grebe on a small lake (these ended up being the only ones of the trip), I also sawplenty of Redwings and Fieldfares some had fledged chicks.
Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025 - the lake the Slav Grebes were nesting on
Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
I got a nice mention before the start of the run as they always like to call out any Parkrun tourists. I wasn't the only person from the UK another young lady had come over to take in this Parkrun. I completed the run a little slower than I hoped in 22min 33 but loved it. One of my favourite parkruns to date. I managed to tick a few birds on the run round including, Swallows, Swifts, Martins, Mallard, Tuffed Duck, RB Mergansers, Whooper Swan, Wigeon, BH Gull, and Arctic tern. We also saw a Tree Sparrow on the walk back to the hotel.
Pokkinen Parkrun, Oulu, June 2025
Adrian and Ricky had had a good thrash around Pokkinen Park but hadn't found any Rosefinches but had managed to find over 20 active Fieldfare nests. One was positioned en route back to our hotel and was at a height I could climb to. A nice C6 and a good start to the day.
Fieldfare, Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
Fieldfare, Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
Fieldfare, Pokkinen Park, Oulu, June 2025
After a quick shower back at the hotel we were off to our next destination which was Kussamo. We had a few sites to check out here before moving north for the waders. We had hoped to stumble across any of the Owl species that appear in the area but weren't prepared to pay a small fortune to hire guides for the day. Plus we like to find our own stuff and not have it handed on a plate. One day I might go back and pay to the see the Owls but still plenty of time to find our own. We couldn't leave Oulu without taking a picture first of the dodgy signs and establishments around our hotel.
The drive to Kussamo was uneventful and didn't come across any Owls we did stop a few times at small lakes to check out the nest boxes that appear all over Finland. Last time we had some good success with these with x2 occupied Smew nests. First box this year was occupied and this time with another new species a Goldeneye. We also had a Greenshank here a check of the surrounding woods didn't produce anything.
Goldeneye lake, Pintamo, Finland, June 2025
Goldeneye, Pintamo, Finland, June 2025
Goldeneye, Pintamo, Finland, June 2025
Goldeneye, Pintamo, Finland, June 2025
First stop in Kussamo was an area our friend Frank had told us to visit a great area for breeding Little Gull and also a chance of Red-necked Grebe. We parked up and headed to a nearby hide to survey the area. Plenty of calling Little Gulls and Black-headed Gulls around. Also a stunning breeding plumage Spotted Redshank a bird that escaped us on our last trip. It was a beauty but too far away for photos. The gulls were all nesting on the marshy area of the lake and very vocal even more so when a Peregrine went through. A few other ducks were on the lake including, Pintail, Teal and Common Scoter. There was also as expected a nesting Red-necked Grebe. We had a blow up dingy to access the lake and to try and photography some of the nests here. Both Little Gull and Red-necked Grebe would have been new nest for all of us but sadly it was far too windy to safely get out to these. The lake was pretty big and if we got it wrong we could have ended up being blown out into this huge body of water. We decided to maybe try again tomorrow as we weren't staying to far away. So we headed of to check in to our digs for the next 2 night.
Little Gull, Red-necked Grebe nesting site, Kussamo, Finland June 2025
We were staying in Ruka which during the winter is a ski resort. It was a good base as it was near to an area we wanted to visit to see another of Finlands rarest breeding birds the Red-flanked Bluetail. We also had a good chance of Siberian Jay here which would be a lifer for all of us. Our accommodation was simple but did the job surrounded by woodland and of course plenty of calling Willow Warblers. We took a walk around the area but didn't see or hear to much as it was no pretty late in the evening. Cuckooo, Snipe and Blackcap were heard. Over the next day we had pair of Redstarts visiting the garden area which must have been nesting nearby.
Ruka accommodation, Ruka Finland, June 2025
The following morning we were up early for a woodland drive to Konttainen we took the long way round to take in some quiet roads on the chance of seeing some Grouse. Sadly we failed with the Grouse but had some great views of Tree Pipit, Crossbill, Cuckoo and Brambling. We arrived at Konttainen and parked up we checked out the feeders first of all and has some great views of several Northern Bullfinch.
Northern Bullfinch, Konttainen bird feeders, Finland, June 2025
Northern Bullfinch, Konttainen bird feeders, Finland, June 2025
Also here were Siskin, Redpoll, Bramblings, Willow Tits and Red Squirrels. No Siberian Jays were heard or seen we left some bread on the picnic tables to hopefully bring in the Jays. Konttainen has a 2km route marked as a bird trail and this is where we hoped to see the Red-flanked Bluetails. It's a 2km uphill walk which was silently apart from the occasional Goldcrest calling. At the top we had great views across the area. You can see for miles and it's a sea of Millions and Millions of trees, 100s of lakes and the odd ski slope. No sign of any Red-flanked Bluetails. Still a beautiful walk and well worth the effort.
Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
We had a good thrash around but apart from the Redwings, Brambling's and Willow Warblers we heard nothing unusual. We didn't have to much time as we wanted to spend some time around Kussamo looking for Little and Rustic Buntings. We started our decent when I heard something a little different to the Redwings we had heard around the top but it was distant and difficult to work out what it was. I headed a bit further back up the hill when I heard it again!!! Boom a calling Red-flanked Bluetail. We were now joined by a birder for Belgium on the same quest but the bird had stopped calling. We waited for several minutes before it started calling again so I decided to walk through the woods to get a location on it. It sounded a lot closer than it actually was and it took me a fair few minutes to locate it. When I did it was sat out on a tree right at the top again. I was alone and tried to whistle for the others to join I stayed put and fired off a few record shots as I didn't want to disturb it so the others could see it. It wasn't long before we were all watching this incredibly rare Finnish breeding bird. It didn't stay for long and soon disappeared down the hill but we all left happy. Sadly no world beating photos were taken but was an awesome experience.
Red-flanked Bluetail, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Red-flanked Bluetail, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Red-flanked Bluetail, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
When we arrived back at the car the bread was all gone and yet there was still no sign of the Siberian Jays. A Cuckoo was now regularly calling in the nearby woods and we were joined by 2 minibuses of American birders on a naturetrek tour. They asked if we had seen the 2 crowd favourites here which we politely responded to. We cheekily asked if they had seen any Owls to which they responded with a resounding yes. Sadly they wouldn't disclose any locations which was fair enough. They tried tape luring the Cuckoo which failed when it flew over their heads and they all missed it, which the 3 of us found quite funny!! They tried for the Sib Jays with meaty sausages but this also failed. One other nice find here was evidence of the difference in spring times we came across a small puddle which had some frogspawn in. Something we are more use to seeing in March not June.
Frogspawn, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
We left the area without a new tick but we had plans for the afternoon. We headed back to Kussamo to check out a site for Rustic Bunting. Sadly the weather was now against us and it didn't stop raining for a fair few hours. We spend numerous hours in a wet woodland looking for Rustic or Little Buntings and sadly failed we had brief sightings but couldn't tie anything down. Plenty of Redwings, Willow Warblers the occasional Reed Bunting and a White-tailed Eagle was about all we saw. We left the site and headed back to the Red-nedked Grebe site. Sadly still too windy to use the dingy but we did have a stunning male Smew drop in for a few minutes. We had walked another location close to here and again failed to turn anything up apart from a distant Whooper Swan sat on its nest.
Whooper Swan, Kussamo, Finland, June 2025
We tried another area which was a winter ski track that followed a lake. We had great views of feeding Little Gulls and Black headed gulls hawking over the water. There was another distant Whooper Swan sat on its nest and a few ducks on around mainly Goldeneye and Tuffed Ducks. There was plenty of bird life along the track with Singing Brambling's, Willow Warblers, Redwings, Fieldfare, Redstarts, Pied Flycatchers and even a Spotted Flycatcher.
Brambling, Kussamo, Finland, June 2025
We left the track and headed into a damp wooded area it wasn't long before Adrain come across a Redwings nest at the foot of a tree. The parents were very vocal so after a quick pic we moved on further into the woods. I followed a Brambling through the woods and as I had tracked it through the tops of the trees a bird cam up at my feet. It was a male Capercaillie and it certainly made me jump as it took off through the trees. Adrain and Ricky missed it so we pushed towards where I saw it disappear but sadly it wasn't seen again. Whilst looking for the Capercaillie we flushed a male Willow Ptarmigan which was great to see up close. We flushed another one later on as well when crossed the road to check out another similar area.
Redwing nest, Kussamo, Finland, June 2025
Redwing nest, Kussamo, Finland, June 2025
Willow Ptarmigan, Kussamo, Finland, June 2025
We crossed over the road so start the walk back to the car it seemed a lot quieter this side and apart from the Willow Ptarmigan we didn't see much else. There was a small clearing into another lake I caught a brief view of a Marsh Harrier. There was also a few duck nest boxes which we checked and got lucky with one of them with another Goldeneye nest.
Goldeneye nest, Kussamo, Finland, June 2025
It still hadn't stopped raining and so we decided to cut our losses and head back to the car and head back to our digs for the night. The following morning we were up early again and we headed back to the Siberian Jay site for one last try. No sign on arrival so Adrian deployed the bread again. Ricky and I checked out the feeders and it wasn't long before Adrain was calling us over as the Jays had arrived. Bosh my first lifer of the trip a pair of stunning Siberian Jays we had 2 brief visits before they disappeared into the woods never to be seen again. The light was poor so most pictures weren't great but I managed a couple of acceptable ones. We stayed for a while and were entertained by some Red Squirrels and a Willow Tit but were pressed for time so we had to move on as we had a few hours journey across the Arctic Circle to the bogs of Northern Finland.
Siberian Jay, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Siberian Jay, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Willow Tit, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Red Squirrel, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Red Squirrel, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Red Squirrel, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Red Squirrel, Konttainen bird trail, Finland, June 2025
Orchid year part 5 - Wiltshire
After yesterday failing on our hunt for Small white orchids today I stayed a little closer to home and ventured just across the Gloucestershire border into Wiltshire for a few hours looking for a nice rare crossbreed orchid. The orchid in question today is a cross between a Frog Orchid and the Common Spotted Orchid. I had seen some pics of these online and they looked very cool. I arrived on site and had the whole reserve to myself. As I walked across the reserve I was greeted by calling Yellowhammers and Corn Buntings which are always great to hear. The first orchids I saw were Common Spotted orchids and these were very numerous, next I came across a small splattering of Chalk Fragrant orchids. Not the numbers or colour range I had seen already this week but still nice to see.
Common-spotted Orchid, Morgans Hill, June 2024
Chalk Fragrant Orchid, Morgans Hill, June 2024
Next up a small white coloured orchid caught my eye and it was a butterfly orchid. I had already seen large numbers of Greater this year so I hoped it would be Lesser, which I am aware have been seen here. I am still a novice with orchids so I took a few close up pictures of the plant and compared it with pictures in my guidebook. I have mentioned this book a few times but it is a great resource to have. To me they looked like Lesser and the fact that they looked a lot fresher than the Greater I had seen at the start of the week was good indication as Lesser flower slightly later. The pictures I took helped to convince me as they showed two great identifying features the lip was pointing straight down and in greater they usually curve backwards. They final piece for me was that the pollinia were close together and parallel but with greater they are spaced and angled.
Lesser Butterfly-orchids, Wiltshire, June 2024
After spending some time with the Lesser Butterfly-orchid I carried on across the reserve and more and more Lesser Butterfly-orchids came into view Probably well over 100 were seen. Next up was the Frog x Common Spotted I had a rough idea where it was but as I approached the area, it stood out like a sore thumb. Very pink looking and the grass around it had been flattened probably by others viewing it (always a giveaway) sadly whoever it was hadn’t seen a frog orchid nearby and flattened that as well. There were 2 of them here and on closer inspection I found a further 3 more. The more I looked the more frogs I came across as well. It was well worth the journey.
Common Spotted-Orchid (Dactylorhiza fuchsii) x Frog Orchid (Coeloglossum viride), Wiltshire, June 2024
On my route back to the car I found a few more pockets of frogs but no more crosses. As the sun was warming up the butterflies were on the wing and it was nice to catch up with a few Marsh Fritillaries.
Frog Orchid, Morgans Hill, June 2024
Marsh Fritillary, Morgans Hill, June 2024