Day 6-8 Mount Ailigás and on to the Varanger - Part 1
June 11th
Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
We had one final day in the area before moving further north the following morning. The plan was to climb Mount Ailigás in search of Dotterel and Snow Buntings before spending the afternoon back on the bogs. The ascent isn't particularly demanding, with the summit reaching just 623 metres, crowned by a large communications tower. On the way up we found another reindeer antler, which we marked on our GPS so we could return later to pick up and pass on to the owners of our accommodation, who would ensure it was displayed with pride in their restaurant.
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
It was another overcast and breezy day, although it looked as though the weather would remain dry. Not long after leaving the car, we came across several large deposits of Ptarmigan droppings scattered across the tundra—a promising sign that the birds were in the area.
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
The first bird we actually encountered, however, was a Long-tailed Skua. It was in much the same area where we had seen a non-breeding pair two years earlier. This time it was a lone bird, which obligingly posed for a few minutes before taking to the air and disappearing across the tundra. Having found a few on previous trips we continued up the mountain.
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
As we continued our climb up the mountain, we began to hear the distinctive calls of Ptarmigan, so we knew it wouldn't be long before we found one. When we finally did, it was a real beauty. The bird stood perfectly still among the rocks, giving us a wonderful opportunity to admire just how effective its summer camouflage really is. Blending seamlessly with the surrounding rocky tundra, it relied entirely on its cryptic plumage rather than taking flight. Its confidence in its camouflage allowed us to edge a little closer, rewarding us with some superb, frame-filling photographs before it finally decided we were close enough. I couls have spent all day here with the Ptarmigan as there is something special to me about these birds. The rock ptarmigan is called Kiiruna in Finnish.
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Rock Ptarmigan, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
The Ptarmigan were a welcome distraction as we traversed the lower slopes of the mountain. We came across a few more individuals, while the calls of Meadow Pipits carried across the tundra. The ground became noticeably steeper as we approached the plateau, and care was needed as the rocks and scree underfoot were extremely loose. This was where we planned to spend the next few hours searching for Dotterel. We split up to cover more ground, walking back and forth across the plateau, but aside from a few Ptarmigan there was little else to be seen. Eventually we regrouped and headed towards the southern edge. As we crossed the open ground, we picked up a single female Dotterel. We watched it for a few minutes before it took flight and disappeared over the edge of the mountain. A brief encounter, but at least we had managed to see one. While watching the Dotterel, we also picked up a male Snow Bunting feeding nearby. Dotterel are a tricky to bird to find nesting you need to firstly be in the right habitat. These birds that blend in so well with their tundra surroundings will literally sit there until you almost step on them. We may have walked within a few feet of the incubating male and just been unlucky on this day.
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
We watched this before it headed off we walked over in the direction it headed to see if it had a girl friend. The male Snow bunting then began to sing from a few song perches across its territory. It allowed a really close approach and we managed to get some frame filling pictures. I love Snow buntings especially in their summer plumage and it was a real privilege to watch this male singing on this barren landscape. Across the Arctic tundra, male Snow Buntings begin singing almost as soon as they arrive on their breeding grounds in early spring. Their cheerful song is often delivered from the top of a prominent rock or during fluttering display flights above their territory. Interestingly, once a male has successfully attracted a mate, his song output declines dramatically and may cease altogether, with his attention turning instead to defending the territory and helping to raise the young. Although beautiful we didn't hold out much hope of finding any Snow Bunting nests today.
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Snow Bunting, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
However eventually, the male was joined by a female, and the search for their nest began in earnest. We spent hours walking the hillsides, watching the female carefully to see where she might lead us. Time and again she would take off and fly a considerable distance, so we would move to another area to continue the search, only to realise she had slipped away somewhere else. This game of cat and mouse continued for quite some time. Throughout it all, the male continued to sing, seemingly unconcerned by our presence. His relaxed behaviour led us to suspect that the pair probably hadn't established a nest after all. It wasn't to be on this occasion, but there would be other opportunities in the future.
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
On the walk back down, we came across a Meadow Pipit—a small consolation after several gruelling hours on the hills. We eventually returned to the car and enjoyed our lunch, accompanied by the constant trilling of a pair of Waxwings.
Meadow Pipit, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Meadow Pipit, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
Waxwings, Mount Ailigás, Finland, June 2025
That afternoon we headed back to the bogs we had briefly explored the previous evening. Our main goal was to spend some time with the Bluethroats, as they were one of our priority species for both nest recording and photography. Sadly, they were a complete no-show, with no sign of them at all. The only birds in evidence were a few calling Redwings and Bramblings. Once again we ventured into the wetland, covering a huge amount of ground with very little to show for our efforts. There were countless small pools that looked ideal, but they were devoid of birds. One particularly large wet area, complete with a small lake at one end, looked especially promising, so we spent several hours searching it thoroughly. We flushed a Broad-billed Sandpiper but failed to locate a nest, so we marked the area for a return visit. That second search also appeared to draw a blank. The video below shows the kind of ground we were covering.
Karigasniemi marsh, Finland, June 2025
Then, just as we were about to give up hope, another bird flushed. To our delight, it was another Broad-billed Sandpiper, and this time it revealed a clutch of three eggs—probably an incomplete set. We were thrilled. Finding one nest of this secretive wader would have been a fantastic result, but discovering a second was simply remarkable. Broad-billed Sandpipers are exceptionally elusive birds that nest almost exclusively in the vast aapa (string bog) and palsa (peat mound) mires of northern Europe. These landscapes are incredibly difficult to navigate, and, as I've mentioned before, the birds favour the wettest areas, often nesting among floating, quaking fens. Nearly 70% of the European breeding population is found in Finland, making encounters like this all the more special. A male smew landed on the water and a couple of Broad-billed Sandpipers were displaying over the bog as we left the area a nice finish to the day.
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpiper, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Broad-billed Sandpipers joy flighting, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
We headed back to the digs for a final supper in the restaurant the food was awesome and well recommended if you are ever in the area. Reindeer burger washed down by some local beers.
Dinner,Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
My room for the last few nights, Muotkan Ruoktu, Karigasniemi, Finland, June 2025
June 12th
Bogs of Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
We had several hours on the road today as we travelled north and we would cross the Finnish border into Norway. The day was cool and overcast, with temperatures hovering around 8°C, but there was still plenty to keep us entertained before leaving Finland behind. Our first stops still within Finland were at a series of roadside nest boxes. One box appeared to contain the remains of a female Smew, and a closer inspection revealed several small birds buried within the nesting material. At that point, I really should have left well alone, but curiosity got the better of me and I carried on looking. Moments later, I was almost attacked by a furious Pine Marten that had clearly adopted the cosy Smew nest as both home and larder. The lid was slammed shut in haste, and we made a very swift exit.
Nest box, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2025
Our next stop was a damp woodland in search of Waxwings. Although the Waxwings remained elusive, we enjoyed a few calling Bramblings, and after finding an empty Redpoll we soon got lucky with a very obliging Redpoll. It wasn't a very difficult climb only a few feet up so managed to get some good pictures of the inside of the nest. We also had a Redwing feeding chicks nearby.
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redpoll nesting area, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Redwing, Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Sevettjjarvi, June 2025
Lihavakalajärvet Buoiddesguoljávrrit, Finland, June 2025
We also couldn't resist stopping to photograph what must be one of the longest place names I've ever come across. Lihavakalajärvet is the Finnish name and apparently translates roughly as "Fat Fish Lakes." The same area is known locally in the Sámi language as Buoiddesguoljávrrit—a name that's even more of a tongue-twister! It certainly made for an unusual photo stop before we continued our journey north.
Whilst moving north we stopped a few times without to much success as we neared the Norwegian border at Utsjoki we stopped and whist the others had a look around I took the opportunity again to get the drone out to survey the surrounding area. Just beautiful as far as the eye can see its just woodland and water.
Utsjoki, Finland, June 2025
Utsjoki, Finland, June 2025
Utsjoki, Finland, June 2025
We crossed the Norwegian border at Utsjoki, and before long the real excitement began as we reached the Arctic coast and joined the E75, which hugs the spectacular shoreline of the Varangerfjord. Varangerfjord is one of northern Europe's most spectacular fjords, stretching for around 100 kilometres along the northern coast of Norway. Bordered by the vast Varanger Peninsula to the north and the Norwegian mainland to the south, its shores are a remarkable mix of rocky coastline, tidal mudflats, wetlands and Arctic tundra. The fjord is internationally renowned for its wildlife, attracting birdwatchers from around the world in search of breeding waders, seaducks, skuas and seabirds. During spring and early summer, the combination of dramatic scenery and exceptional birdlife makes Varangerfjord one of the finest wildlife destinations in the Arctic. We would spend the remainder of our trip exploring this remarkable region, an area that had proved incredibly productive during our visit in 2023. With so many unforgettable memories from that trip, we could only hope that lightning might strike twice. No visit to Varanger would be complete without a stop at Nesseby Church, a site that has featured in countless birding books over the years. Set against the stunning backdrop of the fjord, the church and its surrounding meadows have long been regarded as one of the region's classic birdwatching locations, making it the perfect place to begin our Norwegian adventure.
Nesseby Church, Finland,June 2025
Here, a Common Gull and an Oystercatcher were nesting on the roof of an outbuilding, while another Oystercatcher had chosen the graveyard as its nesting site, providing some unusual photographic opportunities. Although nesting birds were otherwise scarce, the retreating tide revealed large numbers of waders, ducks and geese feeding across the mudflats. White-tailed Sea Eagles are almost commonplace here and were seen soaring over the fjord throughout the day. The nearby pond held several Red-necked Phalaropes, Wood Sandpipers, Ruff and a couple of Spotted Redshanks along its margins, making for an excellent start to our time in Varanger.
Oystercatcher and Common Gull, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Oystercatcher, Nesseby, Norway, June 2025
Continuing along the Barents Sea coastline, we arrived at Ekkerøy, a site frequently mentioned in birding literature. We had been told it was a good location for Turnstones, and finding a nest of this species was our main objective for the afternoon. The walk out to the peninsula was longer than expected. We covered a lot of ground and initially found very little. Eventually, we reached the area where friends had located nests the previous year and began systematically searching. After several passes, Ricky finally flushed a Turnstone. It took a few minutes to relocate, but Adrian remembered reports of Turnstones nesting beneath rocks. Sure enough, tucked away in a shallow depression beneath a rock slab was a beautiful clutch of four eggs — a C4 and one of our key targets for the trip.
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Unfortunately, the nest's position made photography difficult, so we set our sights on finding another. After another twenty minutes of searching, a second Turnstone flushed. This bird proved even trickier, and we were unable to pinpoint the nest location immediately. We marked the area and withdrew to give the bird time to settle back down. While waiting, we spotted a pair of Arctic Skuas in the distance and headed over for a closer look. Compared to the Turnstones, the skuas were easy to locate. One incubating bird soon took to the air, joined by its mate and two additional skuas. What followed was an incredibly vocal and aggressive display.
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
As we approached the nesting area, we were repeatedly mobbed by the furious birds. We've found plenty of Arctic Skua nests over the years, and some birds barely react, but these were among the most aggressive we've encountered. Their determination paid off, however, as we located a clutch of two eggs (C2). After a few quick photographs, we retreated rapidly before the skuas got any closer for comfort.
Arctic Skua, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Arctic Skuas, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Returning to the second Turnstone location, we found the bird again. It flushed and immediately began calling and performing an injury-feigning display. While I watched and photographed the performance, Adrian carefully searched the area and soon located the nest. Another clutch of four eggs, but this time the nest was fully exposed and allowed us to photograph the beautifully marked eggs properly. Mission accomplished.
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
Turnstone, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
We continued searching the surrounding area but found no further nests. What we did discover was a sobering sight — hundreds of dead gulls scattered across the shoreline. We suspected this was another tragic consequence of avian influenza.
A Meadow Pipit nest was found during the walk back to the car, providing one final success before we visited the famous Kittiwake cliffs. Thousands of pairs were nesting there, many still on single eggs while others had completed clutches. It was still slightly early for chicks. Razorbills and Guillemots occupied some of the lower ledges, adding to the spectacle.
Meadow Pipit, Ekkerøy, Norway, June 2025
That evening we headed to our accommodation in the centre of Vadsø. At around £150 for the night, it was comfortable enough, and we all enjoyed a good night's sleep. Before turning in, we stocked up at the local supermarket, ensuring we had enough supplies for the next few days as we prepared to venture further from civilisation.
Digs for the night Vadsø. Norway, June 2025
Digs for the night Vadsø. Norway, June 2025
Digs for the night Vadsø. Norway, June 2025
