Arctic adventures day 1 Finland
Arctic Adventures Day 1
After a few months in the planning it was time to depart for 9 days north of the Arctic Circle. Planning was done using old trip reports from the internet and a few books. I mainly used Gosney guide to Lapland and also Birding Varanger the biotope guide to the best birding sites in Varanger. Gosney is a bit dated but still useful at times. The Biotope guide was excellent with some brilliant pictures. This time of year in the Arctic circle the sun doesn’t set. This meant we had the potential of 24 hours a day birding and could tailor our day depending on the weather. Lucky for us the weather across our trip was awesome and we only had a few spots of rain across the 9 days My five year old daughter Isabelle was kind enough to lend me one of her unicorn sleep masks which came in very handy across the trip. We flew Finnair from Heathrow to Helsinki were we had a 4 hour wait until our connecting flight to Ivalo (Lapland) which is inside the Arctic circle. We had boarded our flight to Ivalo when we were all told to leave the aircraft as there was some kind of problem with the aircraft. Another 2 hour wait before we were up and away. We landed in Ivalo and picked up our car for the trip which was a Toyota C-HR booked through Europcar. We set off for our first stop which was the House Sevetin Rautu in Sevettijarvi this was our base for the next 2 days. All our accommodation was booked through booking.com.
It wasn’t long before Adrian had spotted his first nest. Somehow he had spotted a Black-throated Diver sat on from the back seat of the car. We stopped and turned around to investigate further. Sure enough there was a nest containing 2 eggs the bird had snuck off without us seeing. I tried to take a few pictures from the shore as it was just off the mainland on a small area of reeds but I was having issues with my camera for some reason the auto focus wasn’t working and the lens was making a horrible noise. This is isn’t what you want to hear within the first minutes of your trip. I tried a few different things but nothing would work it looked like something major was up. I used my other camera body and that was the same. By now I felt pretty shit and resigned to the fact I was probably going to have to rely on manual focus something I don’t really do. Months in the planning to an area I have wanted to visit for years and first stop and my lens was having issues. It sounded like something internal was knocking. Gutted was an understatement. We were also being eaten alive by the mosquitoes so headed back to the car to continue our journey.
Out of focus Black-throated Divers nest, Ivalo, Finland, June 2023.
After a bit of thinking time in the car i decided that if my lens was buggered I wasn’t going to let it define the trip. It’s been a pretty shit year for the family and we have had some tough times and this was meant to be a trip to briefly put those things to the back of my mind. If it’s broke then so be it I just need to rely on manual focus and enjoy the trip for what it is. Just means I will have to come back again to tog the wildlife. Lucky for me I managed to get the lens working again but I didn’t feel it was getting the same results as I have had previously with the lens. Service required when we arrive back home. We arrived at our accommodation just after midnight which is no problem here as it’s still daylight. It was basic but clean and tidy. It even had a sauna.
Hire Car outside our accommodation, June 2023
House Sevetin Rautu, Sevettijarvi, Finland, June 2023
House Sevetin Rautu, Sevettijarvi, Finland, June 2023
House Sevetin Rautu, Sevettijarvi, Finland, June 2023
We unloaded and had a look around. We were staying just off a large lake which had a pair of Red-throated Divers on. The surrounding woods had Fieldfares, Redwings and Willow Warblers singing. There was also a bird we didn’t recognise it sounded very nasally a little but like a Greenfinch. I used my Collins app to work out what it was and it was a male Brambling. I have seen these throughout the winter and the look pretty special but in their summer bib they look spectacular. These ended up being the most common bird of the trip and we heard them all over Lapland. The below video was taken at 00.50 and the photos of the lakes at 1.15am. Welcome to 24 hours of daylight.
Brambling, Sevettijarvi, Finland, June 2023
Surrounding lakes, Sevettijarvi, Finland, June 2023
First full day in Lapland and we planned to look for Dotterel on Mount Aliigas which is close to the border of Norway. We planned a few stops en route firstly at the Neljan Tuulen Tupa cafe which if you have read any trip reports for Lapland is the best place to see Pine Grosbeak. It wasn’t what I was expecting and you could only view the birds from inside unless you paid a fee to the visit the garden. We didn’t enquire about how much it’s was instead sitting in the window to enjoy a brew and see what arrives. There was lots of Greenfinch ,Brambling, House Sparrows and a few Red Squirrels. A Redpoll flew in but didn’t look like an Arctic one and we also had a brief glimpse of a male Pine Grosbeak what a beauty he was and my first lifer of the trip. It wasn’t long before a female was on the feeders right in front of us. I took the below photos on my phone. Whilst here we also had a brief glimpse of a male Northern Bullfinch. A slighter bigger version of the bullfinches we see back home.
Pine Grosbeak, Neljan Tuulen Tupa cafe, Finland 2023
Red Squirrel, Neljan Tuulen Tupa cafe, Finland 2023
Just passed the cafe is some bogs and pools which are said to be good for waders like Broad-billed Sandpipers, Spotted Redshank and others but none were seen we did however see these dragonflies. I am not 100% certain of the ID but doing about of research I would say they were Northern White-faced Darters. (Leucorrhinia rubicunda) also known as ruby whiteface. They found in Europe as far east as the Altai Mountains. They are predominantly northern in its distribution, being one of the few dragonflies common north of the Arctic Circle.
Northern White-faced Darter, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Northern White-faced Darter, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Northern White-faced Darter, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Surrounding landscape, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
We carried on towards our destination stopping en route to check out a few of the roadside nest boxes we had started to notice. Every wood next to a pool or bog had a few big boxes ideal for Smew, Goldeneye and maybe owls. The first one we checked was in use and contained the nest of a what looked like a Smew. This was a great start and probably one of our only chances of finding nesting Smews this trip. We checked the nest box about an hour later after a walk through the neighbouring forest and the female was sat on. It was in fact a Smew. A quick record shot and we left her in peace. What a great start.
Smew nest in a box, Finland, June 2023
Smew nest in a box, Finland, June 2023
Smew nest in a box, Finland, June 2023
Whilst walking through the surrounding forest I stumbled across my first nest of the trip and it was a beauty and one I had hoped to see. Adrian confirmed it as a Brambling. It was quite deep and was lined with toilet roll. Being nearby to a lay-by I guess the toilet roll was used by passers by who had been caught short. We didn’t investigate to hard to see how much of it had been pre used. The nest was probably about 7 foot off the ground. Good job I have long arms to take a record shot. It was comical watching Ricky and Adrian try take theirs.
Brambling nest, Finland, June 2023
Brambling nest, Finland, June 2023
Brambling nest, Finland, June 2023
Brambling nest, Finland, June 2023
Brambling nest, Finland, June 2023
Nearby was a small boggy area that held a pair of Grey-headed Wagtails, Reed Bunting, Tundra Ringed plover and out first butterfly of the trip. I didn’t have my macro lens on me so took a few record shots with my phone. I checked it with google lens and it came back as an Arctic Fritillary.
Arctic Fritillary, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023 (iPhone pic)
Surrounding landscape, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
We continued our journey west stopping at various lay-bys. We checked another nest box containing another female Smew. A part from the occasional fly past these were the only 2 Smew we saw the entire trip. I was hoping to be able to photograph a male on the water but this will have to wait for another trip.
Smew nest , Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Smew nest, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Smew nest , Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Smew nest box , Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
Smew nest box, Kaamanen, Finland, June 2023
We reached our destination by early afternoon and before heading up the mountain we hit the nearby town of Karigasniemi for some food. We took a wrong turn and somehow crossed the border into Norway without realising. We soon turned around and headed to a local hotel we’re I tucked into a Reindeer Pizza.
Reindeer Pizza, Finland, June 2023
Lunch done we headed for the hills. Half way up the mountain we encountered our first Meadow Pipit nests a lovely c5 hidden under a rock and then a very impressive C6. Six’s aren’t common with meadow pipits so as they go it was a great find. Meadow Pipits seem to be everywhere.
Meadow Pipit nest, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Meadow Pipit nest, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Meadow Pipit nest, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Next on the agenda was Dotterel we knew they had been seen in the area in previous years so we stood a good chance. We tried out a thermal camera leant to us by Karle Burford. Sadly this was pretty ineffective due to it been warm and sunny every rock on the plateau glowed like a hot bbq coal. We continued across the mountain and up to the telecommunications tower at the top this is where Adrian first caught site of out first Dotterel. It was a beautiful female and was very accommodating. This was the first proper test of my lens. It seemed to be auto focusing and the results looked okay on the back of the camera but only at home on the PC would I really know. Ricky and I spent some time photographing it whilst Adrian had a look for her boyfriend. We spent about 30 mins with this bird at one point it just went to sleep.
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Dotterel, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
We also had a pair of Snow Bunting join us for a few minutes. Not as showy as the Dotterel but a nice trip tick.
Snow Bunting, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Snow Bunting, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
We took a different route down the mountain going over the top and down the steep slope to the east of the summit probably not the easiest route but Long tailed Skua had been seen on this side in pervious years. We had a mountain hare about half way down and then we caught site of a skua species. There was a pair in flight and looked to be Long-tailed skua we continued the climb down and soon saw one of them sat a few 100 feet in front of us. Boom long-tailed Skua a lifer for all of us. It allowed really close approach which probably meant its partner was sat incubating nearby. We sat with the bird for a while taking quite a lot of pictures whilst it posed.
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
Long-tailed Skua, Mount Aliigas, Finland, June 2023
On the drive back to the main road Adrian spotted a Redwing sat on. A quick inspection and we had found our first Redwing of the trip we ended up only seeing one more redwing nest. I guess we weren’t really looking for them after seeing so many in Iceland.
Redwing nest, Finland, June 2023
Redwing nest, Finland, June 2023
We had a few more stops on the way back to our accommodation. First was to let this Reindeer cross the road. Reindeer were seen all over Lapland. Most are semi domesticated and have been farmed for 1000s of years by the Sami people. It’s quite a site to see so many of these beautiful creatures just roaming around the Lapland area.
Reindeer, Finland, June 2023
Reindeer, Finland, June 2023
Other stops included a random sauna in the woods unsure if it was a public one but we didn’t hang around to use it. Here we also watched a Willow Warbler return to its roadside nest it was well hidden in the grass and a bit difficult to photograph. I also spent some time trying to tog the Brambling with not much luck. Was pretty cool watching them throw their heads back whilst they sang. I did spot another small bird feeding in the trees. I managed to get the bins on it to reveal another lifer a Siberian Tit it quickly disappeared but a great bird to see.
Brambling, Finland, June 2023
Brambling, Finland, June 2023
Brambling, Finland, June 2023
Wiilow Warbler nest, Finland, June 2023
Road side Sauna, Finland, June 2023
We stopped at a little lake at the edge of a small village here we had our first pair of Wood Sandpiper we watched them for a while but they appeared to be just resting and feeding. Nice birds to see but a bit distant for decent photos.
Wood Sandpiper, Finland, June 2023
Also around the lake were a few nest boxes the first was used but now empty probably Smew or Goldeneye, with the amount of down in there it was definitely a duck. The 2nd was an awesome find. I opened it up to see two fluffy chicks staring back at me. We believed them to be Tengmalm’s Owls, we searched for an adult bird nearby but no joy. Owls weren’t really on our list of targets due to the difficult nature of finding them in the finish forest. The advice is to get a guide but these come at a cost and where is the fun of having everything pointed out to you. As a group we love to get out and find our own stuff. Although that comes with a risk of not finding anything. Tengmalm’s Owl was another lifer for all of us and a good way to finish up the day.
Tengmalm’s Owl chicks, Finland, June 2023.
Tengmalm’s Owl nest box, Finland, June 2023
